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From then on (sportswear for women), as with day-to-day clothes, became more free, although, after the Second World War, when the American player Gussie Moran appeared at the Wimbledon Championships of 1949 in a short skirt that revealed lace-trimmed panties, the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club accused her of bringing “vulgarity and sin into tennis” and shunned the outfit’s designer Teddy Tinling for many years. By the early 1920s, what had been a wartime expedient, the need to economise on material, had become a statement of freedom by young women. Queen Victoria’s precocious daughter Princess Louise (an accomplished painter and artist who mixed in bohemian circles), was sympathetic to rational dress and to the developing women’s movement generally (although her rumoured pregnancy at the age of 18 was said to have been disguised by tight corsetry). By this time (such movements as the Rational Dress Society (1881)), with which the Morrises and Georgiana Burne-Jones were involved, were beginning to exercise some influence on women’s dress, although the pre-Raphaelite look was still considered “advanced” in the late years of the 19th century.
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To put strict rules on boho would totally undermine this aesthetic; all you need is a sense of curiosity and self-expression. It’s less about following fashion rules and more about writing your own.
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